revised, March/April 2007

This whole homemade / DIY swift thing started several years ago, when I got tired of using my knees and dining chairs to wind yarn.  I wanted to buy a swift, but was aghast when I saw the $70 + price tag.  Then the cog wheels in my brain started churning, and I spent a restless night dreaming about swift plans and building one. The next day, I surveyed the stuff in my garage and went to my local home improvement store, determined to make my own yarn swift.  The first swift (pictured above) cost me about $7 for the wood.  I had the other do-dads in my garage.  Assuming you have the basic tools, but would have to buy all the materials, I doubt they would cost you more than $15, and maybe  $20 at most if you live in places with a high cost of living.   I thought others would want to know how to save money and make one, so I published the first instructions to the homemade yarn swift as a pdf file when I started this blog in February 2006.

 

Months later, as I was preparing for a craft fair, I realized that I really needed 2 swifts in order to reskein all my hand-painted yarns.  So, I made another trip to the hardware store to make myself another yarn swift.   This time, I had to buy all the wood, plus some dowels.  In all, I think I spent $17, including tax..

I made both swifts all by myself, with basic garage tools.  If you don't have them, go borrow them from family or a neighbor.  I provide basic suggestions for sizes here, but seriously, adapt them for your own likes and needs.  You can pretty yours up with a stain or varnish.  I sometimes think about staining them, but I don't think I'll ever get to that, so my will likely just stay plain and functional.

Note: I made both of my swifts a little differently.  "Version 1" refers to the original one (using a CD), respectively, "Version 2" refers to the more recent one.  Version 1 has arms 24" long; Version 2 has arms 36" long. 

Time: approx. 2-3 Hours (or less for the more handy)

Tools:

• hammer
• chisel
• rasp
• handsaw
• cordless drill
• drill bits
• nail set
• sandpaper to smooth out rough edges (I used 80, 100 and 220 grit)
• several 1-1/2 inch nails
• wood glue  (regular craft glue would work too)
• tape measure
• 5/16" spade bit (for Version 1 only)
• miter box (optional; it helps you saw straight)

Materials:

Figure 1

• Version 1

  • One 6’ long 1x1poplar (“A”)

  • One 6’ long 2x1poplar  (“B”)

  • One 5” long 3/8” hex bolt.

  • One 5/16” diameter dowel rod

  • Two 3/8" washers

  • One bad CD (like the free promos you get in the mail)

  • One 3/8" wing nut

• Version 2

  • Two 3’ (36") long 1x1poplar (“A”)

  • Three 2’ (24") long 2x1poplar  (“B”)

  • One 1/2” diameter dowel rod

  • One 3/8” diameter dowel rod (you'll need 2 if you want the pegs to be longer)

  • scrap piece(s) wood

   

Purchase Pattern (PDF Download) $2.00 

 

 

I'm still happy to offer the html version for free, but I have a nicely formatted PDF version that's much easier to print and read, and affordable!

Now I have an easy way to deliver it to you! Consider the cost a donation. ;)

Furthermore, the PDF includes instructions for 3rd lazy susan option. 

 

Instructions:

1.  Using the hand saw, cut the following from the various pieces of wood:

• Version 1

  • Two 30" long pieces from the "A.”  These 2 pieces will become the arms of the swift, “A1” and “A2

  • Two 16" long pieces from “B.”  These 2 pieces will make up the base, "B1" and "B2"

  • Two 3” long blocks from “B.” These 2 pieces will be the feet, so that you save yourself a lot of sweat later, “C1” and “C2”

• Version 2

  • No need to cut "A"

  • Cut off 1-1/2" off one of the "B" pieces.  Then cut that in half.  You will now end up with two pieces 11-1/4" in length, "C1" and "C2"  (Figure 2).

  • Do not cut the the other two "B" pieces, "B1" and "B2"

2.  Find the centers of A1 and A2 lengthwise. Measure 0.5” to each side of the center line for both pieces.  You have now just marked out the center 1” to be chiseled out. (Figure 3). Then mark 0.5”deep of the 1”  center. Then use the handsaw and saw out slivers within the 1” marks.  (Figure 4).

 

3.  Then you can chisel out the remaining wood with your hammer and chisel.  Chisel out this 1” center to 0.5” deep on both A1 and A2.    (Figure 5).

 

4.  Put A1 and A2 perpendicular to one another in an X pattern with the notch sections facing  each other.  You will probably need to adjust and fine-tune the notches a few times. Continue  the fine-tuning process until the intersected section of A1 and A2 are fitted and flush.  I will now  refer the assembled A1 and A2 pieces as “X"

                               

                                                   Figure 3                                                                     Figure 4                                                                     Figure 5

 

5.  Find the center of the X created by A1 and A2 and drill through using the appropriate sized drill bit --  Version 1:  3/8" bit;  Version 2: 1/2" bit.  Take your time when you drill.  I find when making such a big hole, it's easier to drill with a smaller bit first.  This also prevents your rather narrow wood piece from splitting. Also, make sure you are drilling straight, perpendicular to the wood, especially when doing the center holes.

 

6.  Nail C1 and C2 to the bottom of B1 at each end, using a nail set to sink the nail head below the surface of the wood.   Version 2:  Before you actually nail C1 and C2, find and mark a 1-1/2" wide center on B2. Then place it crosswise and centered with B1, checking for fit.  Making any adjustments as necessary, nail C1 and C2 to the bottom of B1.  You will be left with a 1-1/2" space at the center of the base.

7. Find the center of B1 and drill through using the appropriate sized drill bit -- 

     Version 1:  3/8" bit;  Version 2: 1/2" bit.

 

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8.  Version 1:  Mark the center of the bottom of B2.  Using the 5/16" spade bit and go through deep

     enough so that the head of the bolt will fit inside. (If you’re using the larger drill bit to do this, make

     sure you  don’t go too far and go all the way through). Once you have made enough room for the

     head of the bolt, use the 3/8” bit and drill all the way through. 

 

      Version 2:  Place B2 in an X with B1, centering it as you did in step 6.  Now with B1 on top, to ensure that

      the holes will line up, drill through B2 as far as you can without drilling all the way through.  It's okay if

      part of the drill pokes out of B2, because the drill bit is tapered. Just don't let it go all the way through. 

     

9.  You’re almost done now!  Mark where you want the dowel pegs to go on each arm of the X and drill using the appropriate size drill bit -- Version 1:  3/8" bit;  Version 2: 1/2" bit.  (Figure 6). It helps to mark how deep you want the drill bit to go with masking tape.  This way, you'll know when to stop and won't accidentally go all the way through.   I suggest about 4-6 holes on each arm spaced about 1-1/2" or 2" apart.  For Version 1, I put in 6 holes spaced out 1.5” apart on each end of the swift arms.  In my Version 2, I put in 4 holes spaced out 2" apart on each end of the swift arms.  I put in fewer holes for Version 2, because this was my second swift and I really didn't need the extra options. 

 

Figure 6

 

10.  Cut your dowel rods to length.  You'll need 4 pieces of the dowel rod for the pegs.  I suggest cutting

        them at least 6-8" long. For Version 2, you'll also need to cut about 6"-8" off of the 1/2" dowel rod.  

 

11.  Version 2:  Take the scrap piece(s) wood, and drill through the center with the 1/2" drill bit.  Be careful

       to clamp down the wood, especially if it's a small piece.  Otherwise, you'll end up hurting yourself.

       I drilled into a bigger piece of wood first, then cut it down to the size I wanted.   The scrap blocks act

       as a spacer.  This is especially helpful if you drilled your center hole(s) a little crooked, and prevents the

       swift arms from knocking into the base.

      

12. Finish off any rough edges with sandpaper.  You don't want splinters, or worse, get your lovely yarns

       caught on your swift!

 

13. Optional: You could finish your swift with a stain, a varnish or a tung oil rub.  I thought I'd do that,  but I use my swifts so much

      (or is it because I'm too lazy to bother with staining?) that I think my swifts will forever be plain janes.

 

Hooray!! You now have your own swift!  All you have to do is to assemble it:

 VERSION 1

VERSION 2

Center photo: sandwich the block(s) between the base and the arms

WOO-HOO! You're done!  You can easily undo your swift for storage.  I keep my swifts in a laundry bag on a bookshelf.  When someone needs to borrow it, I just grab the laundry bag and take it to my knitting group meeting.  Have fun! 

If you talk about your swift-making adventures on your blog or other forum, please link this page.  I'd also love to see your swifts, especially if you've snazzed it up.

 

Purchase Pattern (PDF Download) $2.00 

 

 

I'm still happy to offer the html version for free, but I have a nicely formatted PDF version that's much easier to print and read.

Now I have an easy way to deliver it to you! Consider the cost a donation. ;)

Furthermore, the PDF includes instructions for 3rd lazy susan option.

~ See My Other Patterns ~

 

Buy Yarns at Handicraft Café

www.handicraftcafe.com

 

 

© Copyright Anne Kuo Lukito, 2005-2007.  All content, including text, graphics, photos, images and diagrams are copyright and property of Anne K. Lukito and Crafty Diversions.  You may print this patterns and make items from the pattern for your own personal use only.  You may not sell or use this pattern or items made from the pattern for commercial use or for profit.  If you have questions, you can contact the Anne at craftydiversions (at) gmail (dot) com.

 

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